ST. VINCENT AND THE GRENADINES

St. Vincent and the Grenadines (‘SVG’) is an archipelago of 32 islands. Nine are inhabited, and some are private. They stretch some 44 miles like beads in a rosary, like a chain of divine jewels. And they’re a paradise for yachties. They’re perfectly spaced, with the land forever in sight and no island over 3 hours away, trade winds blowing at a steady 15 knots, and harbors home to great restaurants and bars. The island of St Vincent has its own dense rainforest, Sunset Rum, Hairoun beer, and no traffic lights. Dogs enjoy the heated tarmac, chickens literally cross the road, and goats nibble on the playing fields. There are banana plantations, coconut groves, and a bamboo forest. Gingerbread houses stand on stilts and are customarily repainted at Christmas. Up in the north, where the Caribs still live, there are mountain trails, waterfalls, and wildlife along with heliconias, giant ferns, palms, and blue mahoes. I loved the bustle of Kingstown’s fruit market and the heritage of the Botanical Gardens. At the Wallilabou Heritage Park all is vibrant and brimming with abundance. Tarzan-swinging ropes make way here for the film set of Pirates of the Caribbean with a museum containing its props and backdrops.

What divine inspiration dreamt up the island of Bequia? Pronounced ‘Bekwey’ and meaning ‘island of the clouds’ in ancient Arawak, it’s a seven-mile expanse which developed less from sugar as from sea-island cotton and indigo, from boat building (especially schooners), whaling and merchant seamen. Nowadays, 70% of the economy comes from tourists, the more adventurous of whom are blessed with fantastic conditions for sailing and wonderful snorkeling, kayaking, and hiking. Right in the heart of the island’s action is Bequia Plantation Hotel (www.bequiaplantationhotel.com). Dating from the 1950s and on the site of the island’s first hotel, the central building has broad verandas decked with old mahogany tables, rattan sofas, and plantation chairs—a traditional, cultured feel for the discerning guest. It’s set back from a lovely stretch of beach and water with gorgeous grounds with mango, guava, and breadfruit trees and the spongiest of grass. The tranquil, duck-egg blue gingerbread-style square cottages are beautifully spaced. Their exteriors have pretty fretwork. In their fresh, airy interiors, blue-and-white contemporary decor mirrors the central plantation house. From it, I loved my daylight trail around the headland to Princess Margaret Beach, and my evening wanders along the well-lit Belmont Walkway, past restaurants to the stalls and the harbor in Admiralty Bay.

Even on a small island, it’s worth going the extra mile. Discretely tucked away on the island’s edge and truly sublime is The Liming (www.thelimingbequia.com). With the word being local lingo for ‘hanging around, usually in a public place with friends, enjoying the scene,’ the hotel certainly encourages its own motto of “the art of doing nothing.” It’s a boutique hotel and a perfect treat for honeymooners. Creams and whites blend with tree-trunk tables, wicker mats, and vast rustic gourds. It’s so nourishing as all is in harmony with nature. Spread across well-kept gardens that include silver Bismarck Palms are the 9 soft yellow villas (to become 23 by September). Their solid square interiors reminded me of David Hockney’s with his white furnishings, still ferns, open white shutters, and plunge pools.

The incredibly spacious restaurant, under its vast dodecahedral roof, is the ultimate indoor-outdoor pavilion and has views of the surrounding islands. The cuisine is fresh and delicious, and the rum punches are quite a knock-out! It all conjured up James Bond and Ursula Andress as the odd twin otter descends excitingly low over the pavilion roof to the airstrip beyond, allowing celebrities to land for lunch, as do passing yachties that moor on the jetty. Often, luxury requires space. It never felt crowded, and I even had the beach to myself as I came back with a day pass that gave me lunch and use of the beach. As the islands get smaller so, their charm intensifies. I arrived at night via the Jaden Express ferry. I changed at Union Island from whose jagged peaks, as I neared, I couldn’t take my eyes off. They forever changed shape, like the dramatic approach to Mo‘orea in the South Pacific. I reached the spectacular Petit St Vincent (www. petitstvincent.com). As I stepped onto the resort’s powerful speedboat, I knew instantly that I was in the lap of luxury. With all the stars shining bright, there was all the joyful expectation of the morning’s discoveries to come, and dawn unwrapped the island like a glorious present. The resort’s mantra is “relaxed Caribbean charm with a touch of elegance.” Its utter seclusion … total privacy … and chance to unwind completely are the result of combining all the elements: rock and wood, Atlantic air, seawater and rain, and fiery heat from the sun.

Each of the 22 stone beach cottages look out to an island. They blend with nature with their neutral earthy tones, their vaulted ceilings, their teak furnishings, and sliding doors. The daytime Beach restaurant menu is effortlessly enticing with its chunky organic-shaped wooden tables under its swaying palms and almond trees. The Main Pavilion restaurant, perched up high, offers a different menu every night using its organic produce from its extensive garden. I spent the day out sailing in a boat called Beauty. Past Mopion, the famous sandbank used for the rum advert, I reached Tobago Cays Marine Park to swim with turtles and snorkel for bright, pretty fish. ‘We returned to PSV (as they abbreviate the resort island). Back to the hammocks and swings. No TV sets. Instead, birdsong and croaking frogs with the clearest crystalline seawater, white powdered sands, and tropical woodlands. PSV really is enchanting and magical. It truly is a treasure island.